Thursday, January 15, 2015

CANE GARDEN BAY

0715 hours January 6, 2015, Maho Bay, USVI: Greg Headed by dingy to Red Hook on St Thomas Island a distance of about 6 nm. Although it had been blowing 25 nm per hour plus for the last two days, less in Maho Bay, winds had decreased to the range of 10 to 15, and seas were relatively flat at our anchorage. Seas picked up as Greg rounded Hawksnest Point but still looked relatively mild across Pillsbury Sound which separates St Johns from St Thomas Islands. The plan was to take the 8:00 am ferry from Cruz Bay to Red Hook if the seas were too much in the Sound. As the seas looked ok Greg proceeded. By mid Sound they were 4 to 6. At this point it was too late to turn back to Cruz Bay to catch the 8:00 ferry. Greg proceeded. The mission to Red Hook was to pick up a prescription at the pharmacy, and fresh vegetables at the new market. As the return trip would be into the seas Greg rode back across the Sound in a ferry wake which helped to smooth the ride. On return we lifted the anchor and headed for Cane Garden Bay on the north side of Tortola. Cane Garden Bay is surrounded by steep hills on three sides with colorful houses poking out of the green landscape. At the base of the hills is a sand beach with restaurants and concessions in colorful buildings under palms, behind. After anchoring we went ashore with Jackie to explore. We had also brought Jackie ashore with us at Maho Bay and had been reminded by beach goers, who had arrived by car, that one of the many Park Service rules were no dogs. With this encounter only two days earlier we decided walk with Jackie down the road behind the beach buildings and not down the beach. The road lead us to the Callwood Distillery, the only remaining rum distillery in the Virgin Islands. Callwood has been distilling rum, from locally grown sugar cane, at this location using the same equipment and the same recipes, for 400 years. Seeing this as an opportunity to taste the real pirates brew, and perhaps better understand what gave them the courage to set sail across oceans without chart plotters, AIS, radar, wind instruments, weather forecasters and sat phones, we purchased a bottle. The bottle says "cane rum, distilled from pure cane juice and aged in oaks". We are waiting for the right group of would be pirates, to better understand their courage. Having seen the road we decided to break the rules, if there were any, and head back with Jackie to the dingy dock on the other end of the beach, along the shore. The sand was filled with umbrellas, chase lounges, woman in bikinis, some without tops, waiters and waitress serving drinks on the sand, and patrons speaking european languages. And yes, dogs and cats wandering between the patrons looking for handouts and attention. What a delightful place! Active Captain provided great reviews for Myett's Restaurant. We left our dingy on the dingy dock at sunset, and walked by the bars and restaurants along the beach. As we approached Myett's we could hear Jimmy Buffet singing for happy hour. We were in the right place. The bar was filled with dancing cruising couples enjoying the music. Beth ordered the local lobster and Greg the New York steak. Both were excellent.







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